Clay Coating - First the back of the blade is coated with clay or refractory cement. The blade is then brought up to critical temperature and placed in the quench medium. The portion of the blade which is coated will cool more slowly and reach a lesser degree of hardness.
Torch - The cutting edge is quickly brought to critical temperature with a torch and then placed in the quench medium. This method is usually only used on smaller blades because it is difficult to evenly achieve the proper temperature on the full length of a large blade.
Differential Tempering
This is the term I use when the transition was performed at the tempering phase of heat treating. That is, the blade is fully hardened, then tempered, and finally the spine is drawn back with a torch. This is often done with the cutting edge placed in a tray of cold water. The depth of the water is usually set from 1/3 to 1/2 the overall width of the blade. The spine is carefully drawn back with a "painting" action of the torch on the spine.
Closing Statements As previously stated, this was not intended to be a lesson in heat treating. I have just scratched the surface to give you an idea of what differential heat treating is, where its application is beneficial, and some of the methods used.||||||||http://knifeart.stores.yahoo.net/difbyterprim.html||||||||0||||||||||New||||||||||||||0||~~|^^|evcusknifbyd||item.||knifeart-page||knifearticles||||||||"Evaluating A Knife" by Darrel Ralph||evcusknifbyd||knifearticles > ||Knife Knowledge Hub > ||||||||Evaluating A Custom Knife by Darrel Ralph||||||Usually ships the same business day||0||1||1||0||||||||FOLDERS:
- Fit and finish inside and out. Look in the front end of the knife, at the stop area, and the linerlock ramp -- fit and finished? On a lockback, is the cam area and blade-end finished? Look inside, is the knife clean? What do you see?
- Test for any wobble of the blade at the pivot. This is often considered an important test of a folder's construction especially if it is knife which will see use. Take the pressure off the liner (or backspine for lockbacks) while the blade is in the fully opened position and wobble the blade. This is the only accurate test because if the liner or lock is engaged you can't tell if the blade pivot is precise. On autos you may find a very small amount of play while on a linerlock or most lockbacks there should be none that you can feel. However, pin-together lockback folders will have a small amount of blade wobble with no load on the lock. This is due to the fact that there are no washers, and a zero-tolerance metal-to-metal fit will "gall" or bind. Generally the customer expects a very light & smooth action. Most expect the blade to fall when the knife is held upside down and the lock released, yet to still have minimal blade play, thus making use of a washer impossible. So makers have had to adjust their knives accordingly. As for linerlocks, they can and should be made with near zero side-play given the availability of the synthetic washer material we have today. One thing to take into consideration when looking at a previously owned knife is that the former owner may have loosened the pivot screw so they could "sling" the blade open, thus compromising the makers original "specs" for blade play.
- Does the knife open smoothly? A good pivot opens smoothly, with very little friction (given the appropriate tension adjustment at the pivot); there is no wobble and no "ragged" feeling to the motion of the blade.
- Detent (linerlocks). Is the knife blade detenting? Does it stay shut under normal usage?
- The blade should be positioned so it is centered with respect to the frame when it is closed.
- Lockbacks should stay shut when hung upside down. The degree of stiffness in the opening action is a personal preference and needs to be considered when judging the knife. In addition lockback knives, unless they are designed especially to not do so, should have an almost seamless fit where the blade meets the backspine (locking bar) when they are opened.
- Blade grinds can be another area to evaluate closely. In the choil area check that the grind radius matches on both sides of the blade. Hold the knife up to the light with the edge towards you and see if the grind lines match as they come down from the blade. Occasionally you'll see that the choil grinds will match but the radii sweeping from the grind downward won't. Also look at the tip. See if the grinds are the same and the blade is straight and the clip matches on both sides.
- Liner lock-up and fit. For lockbacks does the lock wobble up and down? Will either unlock with pressure on the handle? Accidental unlocking is of more importance to a "using" knife than for one which is intended as a display piece.
- Beware the term "looks like it will fail" when discussing the lockup of a liner. Locks have been known to fail that are on the left edge of the blade, on the center of the blade or all the way across the blade. Assuming the lock engages the blade by at least the thickness of the liner then there are two things that make for a positive lockup: (1) correct tension on the lock , and (2) a 90 degree angle on the lock face & proper angle on the blade. If these two things are correctly done the lock will hold, if not, the lock will fail no matter where it sits on the blade. So the only way to know is to apply pressure to the blade and see if it holds. Every customer has a preference as to where they want to see the lock.
- Check for sharp edges and finish of the screw slots.
- How clean and oil-free is the knife?
Fixed blades:
- How well is the guard fitted to the handle? Is it square with respect to the blade?
- Check the blade grinds as above. Daggers are often challenging in this regard.
- Balance. Balance is especiually important in a "using" knife and strongly contributes to the effectiveness of the knife (or sword). Many believe the balance point should be around the guard while, for swords, from the guard to 10 inches max. in front of the guard depending on length. If you are having a knife ( or sword) made then make sure you discuss with the maker your preferred balance position and whether he, the maker, would make any suggestions based on his experience.
On Both:
- Inspect the steel for flaws. A hand-rubbed finish should be a continuous set of lines with no fuzzy brush marks. Machine satin-finish should be consistent over the entire surface. In no case should you be able to see grind marks underneath the finish.
- Design: Is the knife a picture or does it have stopping place to the eye? Perhaps I can explain this a little. Many people see a knife-maker as just a guy who makes knives. But to make a knife where the "lines" flow artistically requires more than than just the normal "logical" thought that we use for most things. I found a book which left an indelible impression on me and let me succeed in learning to draw. The book is "Drawing on the Right Side of the Brain : A Course in Enhancing Creativity and Artistic Confidence by Betty Edwards (ISBN: 0874775132)". There are two aspects to appreciating the design of the knife: one is the overall "picture" the knife makes while the other is the individual components and lines which draw your eye from one component to another. With a well-designed knife these two aspects work in harmony to form the overall view of the knife. With some knives a technique I like to use is to hold the knife upside down. This way, if the knife doesn't "look" like a knife, you fool your brain into not looking at the knife logically but rather artistically, as an object. Do the lines guide your eye to the different elements of the knife? Do all the elements come together into a single pleasing, picture? If this is true then the design has been well thought out and well executed.
- Check the blade grind thickness from side to side. The edge angle should be consistent from side to side. The point should be very sharp with no burrs on the top or sides of the edge. There are several types of grinds and each should be evaluated individually. Hollow grinds should be thick enough to make for a strong cutting edge . Flat grinds should be flat with a small "apple seed", i.e. a convex shape, on the edge. This keeps the edge strong. Another grind is the saber grind which is a convex-type grind . This is the strongest type of grind, for example some swords and most axes use this type of grind, but the drawback is this grind is difficult (impossible) to sharpen by hand without flattening it. To produce a true convex grind requires a belt-grinder with the belt loose (slack). The easiest grind to sharpen is the hollow grind but is the weakest of the three. I am a believer in the flat grind. It's in the middle of the other two and serves well for the collector, however, the grind should meet the requirements (aesthetic or practical) the owner has for the knife.
- Has the maker chosen a Damascus steel for the knife? There are two main things to consider when evaluating Damascus steel: the overall pattern/appearance and whether there are serious flaws in the welds. If you like the pattern and the way it is finished then small welding flaws should be overlooked since no piece is going to be flaw-free. Specialty Damascus can be expensive to make; a maker can easily spend a hundred hours turning 7 pounds of various metals into 8 ounces of finished Damascus. So don't be surprised when high prices are being asked for steels from well-known leaders in the field or for particularly exotic or work-intensive patterns. Since the appreciation of a particular piece of Damascus is so personal it is hard to give guidelines beyond "that which appeals to your particular taste". In general the steel should not appear "muddy", that is, the pattern and the etching process (if any) chosen should leave the piece with a crisp look. Some people prefer a subtle pattern, others prefer a flashy one. Some examples of well-known makers of quality and/or cutting-edge work are: Don Fogg, Steve Schwarzer, Hank Knickmeyer, Barry Gallagher, Shane taylor, Rick Dunkerly. When looking at mokume (which is a damascus made from non-ferrous metals) watch for flaking and peeling of the layers. Several patterns are available so, once again, it is up to the collector to determine what they like as far as appearance goes.
- Choice of materials: Are these the right materials? Do they go together well? Evaluating the material chosen for the handle and how well this fits with the overall view of the knife is, again, a personal preference. In my view the materials chosen for the knife should go well together, i.e. fit with the motif of the knife and, for me, add a bit of zing. I do not use many woods, but when I do I prefer burled types if they are available. As for synthetic types of materials; I find they all cost about the same so I am not partial to any particular one. For a utility type knife, G10, micarta and carbon fiber all make great handles.
Pearl: there are many types and grades of pearl. All pearl should be skin free (the dark scaly material, on the ends mostly); look for cracks and worm holes. Most types of pearl will show a "shimmer" effect which is often appealing in the finished handle.
Black-lip pearl should be black with cobalt-blue, red, purple and a small amount of white for colors. Some light spots are acceptable but, in general, it should be mostly a variety of colors.
Gold-lip pearl should be gold with very few light spots. The best gold-lip I have seen is either solid gold or gold with some other color present. The colored type seems to be a bit lighter.
White pearl, in the presentation grade, is usually very white, sometimes with clouds. I prefer the type with some color over the pure white type since I feel it gives the knife a better over all look. This type is usually grade A without cracks.
- Blade-to-handle ratio. Does the blade look proportional to the handle?
- How does it feel in the hand?
- Is the blade sharp?
- Examine the file work (if any). It may look good at first glance but after further inspection it may be way off. Does it have a theme? For some knives the maker will carry a theme throughout different aspects of the knife's decoration (including the file work).
- Blade heat treat. Primarily one has to go by the knife-maker's reputation, but, if you own the knife you can test the edge using a small brass rod. This description is courtesy of Steve Harvey: I use Wayne Goddard's brass rod test. I press the edge sideways against the side of a 0.25" brass rod. If the edge is properly tempered, you should be able to see it flex around the rod, and return to straight without deforming (too soft) or chipping (too hard). I learn a lot about the steel from sharpening also. A burr should not form too easily, or be too large. Also, if the burr is very elastic, and tends to just flop side to side rather than getting harder to feel as you use lighter strokes or finer grits, that is a bad sign. Usually this is after the sale, but if you paid $400 for a blade that won't cut or hold an edge worth a darn, it will give you something concrete to tell the maker.
A word on sharp. A blade does not have to shave to be sharp. A meat cutting edge is better if it is just at the point where it's biting but may not yet shave. It will cut longer this way. I have done tests that prove that a knife sharpened like this cuts longer than one that is shaving sharp. I am not discounting the shaving edge. But a knife should be sharpened for the job it is meant to do. A dagger is meant to puncture not cut paper etc.
||||||||http://knifeart.stores.yahoo.net/evcusknifbyd.html||||||||0||||||||||New||||||||||||||0||~~|^^|filbycurmwil||item.||knifeart-page||knifearticles||https://s.turbifycdn.com/aah/knifeart/file-work-patterns-by-curtis-m-wilson-71.jpg||||||"File Work Patterns" by Curtis M Wilson||filbycurmwil||knifearticles > ||Knife Knowledge Hub > ||||||||File Work Patterns: By Curtis M. Wilson (click to enlarge)||||||Usually ships the same business day||1||1||1||0||||||||File work has been used for many years and by many knife makers to enhance their work. The following are a few original patterns and some of my own. One of the best things that I have found to use as a practice item is aluminum. Use either a blue or black magic marker or metal blue die-chem. Then you can lay out the pattern. To lay out the pattern I use a flexible metal 6 inch ruler and a scribe.Patterns can be of a geometric type or of a specific item. I have found that jewelers files work well but must be of a good quality, also chain saw files work very well for the round cuts and they come in two sizes. I have read many articles on file work, as well as demonstrated file work during a class given by: Johnny Stout and Harvey Dean. During the class I actually demonstrated file work doing a Wrap-Around Rope pattern on the spine of a folder blade thus no need for a nail nick as the bottom edges of the rope acted as a nail nick for either the right or left hand.
Some of the files used must have one thing done to them to work best and that is to actually grind smooth one side of them: 1) the triangle file - one side flat, 2) the flat file - one side edge flat, 3) the square file - one side flat. -(You will notice as you cut that the edge against the flat or smooth side will cut cleaner and quicker.) Also you will need to cut away from some of the points without actually cuffing into the point of its origin and the flat side of the file will allow you to do just that.
The following is a list of patterns and of the files used to make them: # 1) Tusk Walking (A)1/2 Round File or an Oval File; (B) Triangle File with one side smooth; (C) Flat File or the flat of a Triangle File. First cut Is A, Second cut is B, third cut Is C.
# 2) Horns Walking (D) 1/2 Round File; (E & F) Triangle File. First cut is D, Second cut is E, Third cut is F.
# 3) Split Horns (G) 1/2 Round File or Oval File; (H & 1) Triangle File; (J) Oval File. First cut is G, Second cut is H, Third cut is 1, Forth cut is J.
# 4) Claws (K) Round File, 1/2 Round File, or an Oval File; (L) Triangle File. First cut is K, Second cut is L1, Third cut is L2.
# 5) Arrow Heads (M & 0) Triangle File; (N) Oval File - Oval Edge. First cut is N, Second cut is M, Third cut is 0.
# 6) Rope (P) Round or Oval File; (Q) Triangle File. First cut Is P, Second cut is Q. The Rope pattern is basically an elongated S cut, then another one connecting the two points, with a thin cut connecting the two points to give it the braided or thread appearance
# 7) Wave-Broken Double Cut (R) Oval File or 1/2 Round File may be used; (S) Triangle File. First cut is R, Second cut is S.
# 8) Double cut (Either alternating file cuts or the same for both sides.) (T) Triangle File; (U) Round or Oval File.
# 9) Wave - Saw Tooth M Round File. Only cut even side cuts.
# 10) Double Wave (W) 1/2 Round File or Oval File. Only cut odd side cuts (alternating).
# 11) Large Wave - Broken Double Cut. See #7.
# 12) Bat Ears Wave. Modified # 11. *
#13) Modified Bat Ears Wave. Modified # 12.
# 14) Zulu Spear (I) Triangle File; (g) Sharp .V File; (h) Oval File; 0) round File. Note the Sharp V file is a very thin V-shaped file with a smooth back (it only has one cutting edge), sort of a flat triangle file with two sides smooth.
#15) Vine Patterns like the in the side illustration will normally move toward the tip or the point of the blade. They can also be used with engraving and scrimshaw, to give an overall scene. Which is what I have done here with this sketch of a work in progress.||||||||http://knifeart.stores.yahoo.net/filbycurmwil.html||||||||0||||||||||New||||||||||||||0||~~|^^|thevbycurmwi||item.||knifeart-page||knifearticles||https://s.turbifycdn.com/aah/knifeart/the-vacuum-compressor-by-curtis-m-wilson-107.jpg||||https://s.turbifycdn.com/aah/knifeart/the-vacuum-compressor-by-curtis-m-wilson-112.jpg||"The Vacuum Compressor" by Curtis M. Wilson||thevbycurmwi||knifearticles > ||Knife Knowledge Hub > ||||||||"The Vacuum Compressor" by Curtis M. Wilson||||||Usually ships the same business day||1||1||1||0||||||||The vacuum comes from a medical suction machine, or a vacuum pump available from, "Surplus Center, 1015 West "0" Street, P.O. Box-82209, Lincoln, NE 68501-2209; Ph # (402)-474-5198. This is the only place that I've been able to find this item. (Note: for the purchase of a medical suction machine you will need to have a Physicians Order).
The Stabilization Solution
Many different knifemakers use different materials for stabilization, and most Professional Stabilizers will just tell you that it's different polymers, if you get any answer from them at all.
The following are some of the products that I have used: 1) Thompson’s Water Seal 2) A Quality Sanding Sealer (water, oil, or acrylic based) 3) Polyurethane (clear-gloss, or semi-gloss) 4) Sodium Silicate (also known as liquid glass, this is a water base and will need to be thinned down to be used.
I prefer Sanding Sealer (acrylic, or water based) and Polyurethane for the wood burls and the softer woods. The reason for this is that it seems to fill into the wood and make it harder than the Water Seal. If you are just going to waterproof then use the Thompson’s Water Seal.
Items Not To Be Stabilized
Cocobolo, or any other wood that has a high natural oil base. The reason for not stabilizing these types of materials is that it will in most cases draw out the oil under pressure and discolor the wood or other material in the vacuum.
I hope that this helps in some way to answer some of the questions concerning stabilization of handle materials.||||||||http://knifeart.stores.yahoo.net/thevbycurmwi.html||||||||0||||||||||New||||||||||||||0||~~|^^|knife-steel-interview||article||knifeart-page||knifearticles||https://s.turbifycdn.com/aah/knifeart/ultimate-knife-steel-interview-with-jim-beckman-of-crucible-industries-141.jpg||||||'Ultimate Knife Steel Interview' with Jim Beckman of Crucible Industries||||knifearticles > ||Knife Knowledge Hub > ||||||||||||||||0||0||0||0||||||||||||||||||||||||0||||||||||New||||||||||||||0||~~|^^|groomsmen||item.||knifeart-page||knifearticles||https://s.turbifycdn.com/aah/knifeart/4-great-groomsmen-knives-gift-pocket-knives-for-other-occasions-68.jpg||||||4 Great Groomsmen Knives & Gift Pocket Knives for Other Occasions||newitem353796173||knifearticles > ||Knife Knowledge Hub > ||||||||4 Great Groomsmen Knives & Gift Pocket Knives for Other Occasions||||||Usually ships the same business day||1||1||1||0||||||||Sometimes it is difficult to find perfect gifts for people. You want to get them something they want that they can call their own. Fortunately, compared to other tasks, giving bachelor gifts is simple. If you screw up, no one will care. Good friends do not demand good gifts, but they do deserve them. Your friends earned them. You do not have to spend lots of money, but you do need to think outside the box. Here are 4 great pocket knives for bachelor gifts that they will love.
Benchmade 482 Megumi
The Benchmade 482 Megumi makes a great gentleman’s knife with a slim profile and classic design. Benchmade's Nak-Lok mechanism holds the 530V stainless steel clip point plain edge blade securely with a quick, one-handed thumb stub opener. The handle sports a smooth carbon fiber and cocobolo wood with a MIM filed back spacer for a polished feel and finish.
Benchmade 555HG Mini-Griptilian Pocket Knife Knife
This rugged knife exists for the tough jobs. The benchmade 555HG contains a durable 154CM stainless steel blade that can withstand use and abuse. The blade resists corrosion ensuring that it will last you a very long time. The stylish Valox stainless steel handle supports a secure, comfortable grip, an ambidextrous AXIS® locking mechanism, and a pocket clip.
Chris Reeve Small Sebenza 21 Folding Knife
This high-end, award-winning, steel blade knife will set you back $350, but it is well worth the price. The Small Sebenza 21 is no starter knife. It is something you aspire, pine over, and then climatically acquire. Just carry this all time classic, and people know. It is a must have for any knife collector. The Sebenza 21 comes with a titanium handle with a high quality stainless steel blade.
Zero Tolerance 0450 Flipper
The compact, fast opening Zero Tolerance 0450 sports a top grade, razor-sharp, S35VN stainless steel blade. The $160, light-weight, titanium frame lock knife opens smoothly with its KVT ball-bearing opening system and built-in flipper. The American-made 0450 offers excellent value and style, making it a great choice for everyday carry.
Value Added Article Produced by KnifeArt.com. If you enjoy the article and it helps in your knife search, we would love to have you as our customer. Links and social shares also appreciated.
© Copyright - All rights reserved||||||||||||||||0||||||||||New||||||||||||||0||~~|^^|carbonfiber1||item.||knifeart-page||knifearticles||https://s.turbifycdn.com/aah/knifeart/choosing-a-knife-carbon-fiber-handles-54.jpg||||||[Article] All About Carbon Fiber on Knives - KnifeArt.com||newitem355107496||knifearticles > ||Knife Knowledge Hub > ||||||||||||||Usually ships the same business day||1||1||1||0||||||||by Larry Connelley
When it comes to choosing a knife, the type of material used for the handle is just as important to the buyer as the type of blade. Knives with carbon fiber handles are one option you may consider if you are looking for a strong knife with a unique look and feel.
Organic materials like wood can shift, crack or break under pressure, while stronger materials like metals often lead to heavy knives that are difficult to use. To maximize their handles' form and function, many manufacturers are turning to carbon fiber - a great choice for many reasons.
What it is and How it's Made:
Carbon fiber manufacturing is a complex and technical process. In basic terms, it a synthetic material that is created from the precursor polyacrylonitrile material - 90% of the time. Manufactures draw precursor material into long strands. These strands are then sealed off from oxygen and placed under extreme heat. The heat purifies the material of the non-carbon atoms in a process called oxidization, tightening the bond between the remaining carbon strands. Once the material is fully through the oxidation process, it picks up its recognizable black color. The result is thin, black, hair-like fibers. The carbon fibers are then woven together into a thread and then again into textile-like sheets.
To become usable as a solid workable material, sheets of woven fiber are impregnated with resin under high heat and pressure. The fibers can then be laid over a mold and coated with resin under heat and pressure.
Why It is Ideal For Knife Handles
Carbon fiber is ideal for knife handles for several reasons. For starters despite being extremely lightweight, it is also very durable. As one of the hardest artificial substances available, carbon fiber is a rigid material for manufacturing high-end knife handles. A carbon fiber knife handle can withstand great pressure without breaking or flexing. Because the material is so lightweight, you will enjoy high blade-to-weight ratio when carrying the knife.
Additionally, many prefer carbon fiber handles because of the artistic qualities. The fibers reflect light, giving each knife a distinct, decorative look. Manufacturers use carbon fiber in a wide range of industries including aerospace industry, computer parts, medical industry, bicycle frames, fishing poles, extreme watches, and high-end auto industry. Anywhere you need an extremely strong material with lightweight you will likely find carbon fiber.
Strength and Durability
In terms of strength, carbon fiber is one of the strongest materials used today for knife handles. It is much stiffer than steel, and five times stronger. In terms of durability, it will last a lifetime of heavy use.
The Down Side Of Carbon Fiber
While the material is very versatile, it is also much harder to work with than G10 or Micarta for the maker and significantly more expensive. The cost is due to the labor-intensive manufacturing process of carbon fiber.
Value Added Article Produced by KnifeArt.com. If you enjoy the article and it helps in your knife search, we would love to have you as our customer. Links and social shares also appreciated.
Copyright 2018- All rights reserved||||||||||||||||0||||||||||New||||||||||||||0||~~|^^|anti||item.||knifeart-page||knifearticles||https://s.turbifycdn.com/aah/knifeart/the-how-and-why-of-anodized-titanium-treatments-55.jpg||||||[Article] Anodized Titanium Treatments on Knives - KnifeArt.com||newitem356747408||knifearticles > ||Knife Knowledge Hub > ||||||||Anodized Titanium Treatments on Knives||||||Usually ships the same business day||1||1||1||0||||||||Titanium is a wonderful metal, with the highest strength to density ratio of all metals. This lightweight strength is what makes it so perfect for spacecraft, aircraft, and of course, knives.
Why are anodized titanium treatments done?
With anodized titanium treatments, the metal becomes an artistic canvas for the metalsmith. This treatment permanently colorizes the metal without the need to apply a coating or plating. It provides a wide variety of colors from which to choose, including yellow, green, pink, gold and blue.
How does it work?
Anodizing takes advantage of the oxidizing properties of titanium. When the surface of titanium is exposed to electricity or heat it forms a thin, oxidized layer. This layer has prismatic, color-changing properties similar to that of a soap bubble. The color of the layer varies according to its thickness.
Two types of anodizing - Here's a look a two processes that really make the metal have a beautiful finish:
Electrical Anodizing
This method works well for producing a single, evenly-toned color. The treatment uses direct current of at least 80 volts and between 1 and 3 amps. The titanium piece hangs in a bath of conductive liquid connected to a power source by a strip of conductive metal. Current is applied to the metal until it changes to the desired color. The color varies according to the amount of amperage and voltage being used.
Since titanium is reactive, a thin layer forms on the surface of the metal. Even though this layer is translucent, it looks like different colors because of how it refracts light. This electric method creates a very uniform color change across the surface, and you can cover areas you don't want to change to create patterns.
Heat coloration
The reaction is identical, but the reaction is triggered by heat instead of electrical current. Heat anodizing is less precise than the electrical method, but it can produce more complex results, such as gradients or multicolored effects. However, this is more useful for creating swirls or rainbow patterns. The first step is to completely clean and dry the piece, then a flame is applied directly to the metal until it changes color. Any dust or fingerprints will leave imperfections in the coloring. The color can be changed at specific spots by bringing a hotter flame in closer.
Are there any drawbacks?
Anodized surfaces can scratch during everyday carry when contacting other objects, and the color may be altered by contact with skin oil. Also, heat-anodized titanium may be more vulnerable to wear than electrically-anodized titanium. However, anodizing actually increases the resistance of titanium to corrosion and wear, and the oxidized layer can hide scratches.
All-in-all, titanium anodizing treatments can be regarded as a way of enhancing the quality and beauty of knives.||||||||||||||||0||||||||||New||||||||||||||0||~~|^^|welfromknif||item.||knifeart-page||index||https://s.turbifycdn.com/aah/knifeart/about-us-71.jpg||||||About Us||welfromknif||||||||||||Thanks for visiting!||||||Usually ships the same business day||0||1||1||0||||||||Online since 1998, KnifeArt.com is the internet's fine knife destination. All of the brands and makers that we carry are "best of the best" in the knife industry. Regardless of price, our products represent the highest value and workmanship in their category. Most of our products are proudly made in America.
As a customer, you will receive prompt service, a solid guarantee, fast delivery, and secure online ordering. We have sold thousands of knives to customers all around the United States and the world. The core of our business comes from loyal and repeat buyers and we want to be your first choice for a high-quality knife. Our business has an A+ rating from the Better Business Bureau. If you are not happy with your purchase or have concerns please personally call us at 1-800-564-3327.
KnifeArt.com is based in Little Rock, Arkansas - the heartland of knife country. The heritage of Arkansas fine knives continues to this day - now online in this new century at KnifeArt.com.
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